Ingredient glossary

A nucleoside allowed as a wrinkle-care ingredient in Korea's functional cosmetics system.

A dicarboxylic acid with a proper dermatology career for rosacea and pigmentation.

A meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia, sold as a retinol alternative.

Polysaccharides, often from yeast or oats, that sit on skin like a drink of water.

The spring sap of Asian white birch, used as a watery base in Round Lab and others.

Anthocyanin-rich rice used by Haruharu Wonder as a brand signature.

A creeping Apiaceae herb used in Korean and Ayurvedic medicine; the extract is rich in triterpenes.

Lipids that make up a large share of the stratum corneum's mortar.

The Korean root, traditionally decocted, now standardised in essences and creams.

The cheapest, most proven humectant in the cabinet.

Tea polyphenols with a decent topical evidence trail for oil and irritation.

A pungent herb used in East Asian herbalism; the extract is the backbone of Anua's best-seller.

A glycosaminoglycan that binds water. Molecular weight changes how deep the slip feels.

A purified triterpene glycoside from centella, more standardised than a whole-plant soup.

Korean mugwort, a bitter Asteraceae extract used in traditional decoctions and now in soothing toners.

The amide form of vitamin B3 and one of the few actives that deserves its hype.

The FDA-recognised skin protectant, now in a hundred indie cleansers.

A humectant and precursor to pantothenic acid, used in almost every decent after-sun.

Short amino-acid chains sold as conversation pieces and, occasionally, as useful firming support.

Resinous hive material bees collect from tree buds; antioxidant and faintly antimicrobial.

The over-the-counter retinoid most people can actually use.

The nutrient-rich outer layer of rice, used in Japanese and Korean rinses for centuries.

A fatty butter from the shea nut, rich in stearic and oleic acids.

The filtered secretion of farmed snails, used in K-beauty since the 2000s as a humectant film-former.

A hydrogenated, shelf-stable triterpene, usually from sugarcane now rather than shark liver.

A dicarboxylic acid popularised by The Inkey List for spot work.

A lysine analogue used orally for heavy bleeding and, topically, for stubborn pigmentation.

The unstable, effective form of vitamin C. Derivatives are a different conversation.